Thursday, March 14, 2019

Cables


Remember this?  This is a sample panel knitted from a mystery chart posted on a Facebook group I belong to.  The sweater it relates to uses two of these panels side by side up the front to create a very modern take on the cabled sweater - asymmetric and unusual.

I prefer a balanced, symmetrical approach, but I also like a challenge.  Someone at the Spinners and Weavers group asked me if I chose my knitting patterns solely on the basis of the level of difficulty.  Perhaps I do, but this would not qualify - it's a very straightforward chart with only one cable crossing at a time.

So then - how to make it into a jumper since there was no pattern as such?  I had decided on a DK weight yarn and went out to buy a denimy blue.  I bought 700 gms of an unusual colour somewhere between a mustard and an acid green.  It actually took about 425 gms, but better safe than sorry.

I knitted a little swatch - cast on thirty stitches and knitted about ten rows.  Then I checked how many stitches per inch I was getting.  Answer 7.  So I just multiplied half my hip measurement by 7 and that gave a notion of how many to cast on.  I used a twisted rib.  The panel was 41 stitches wide so two plus a one stitch divider gives 83.

We scanned in the original chart and found a way to flip it so that the cables could be mirrored rather than placed side by side.  This was a good decision, since it added the symmetry I was looking for.

The armhole decreases followed a standard shape for a set-in sleeve and then I had to decide where to scoop the neckline.  This took two tries since at first it was too high when I offered it up. Alongside the front I began the plain back in reverse stocking stitch and finished that at roughly the same time so I could tack the pieces together to test the fit.

So then the sleeves.  Measuring my biceps gave me the target width for the top of the sleeve, multiplied by 7 which was the stitches per inch.  Measuring my wrist gave the starting point for the cast on.  It happened that the row gauge was also 7 so I knew if the sleeve seam had to measure 17 inches how many rows I had in which to increase from the cast-on stitches to the top of the sleeve measurement, so that gave the rate of increase.

I did try picking up the sleeves and knitting top-down but the pick up looked ugly in the reverse stocking stitch  so I went with separate sleeves.  I knit them both at the same time flat on straight needles.  I used the instructions for the sleeve-head of Geiger as it is a complex shape, but once I had sewed them in place it was clear that they were too deep so I took them back and shortened the sleeve-head by doing the same number of decreases but in fewer rows.  They fit much better now and should settle in wear.

I decided to use an applied I-cord to finish the neckline - simple and quick.

All this is why knitting is not what you might call a mindless activity.





7 comments:

greenmtngirl said...

That sweater looks fantastic! What a great color on you, and well done on the cables. I really like the mirroring because it does add symmetry without detracting from the asymmetrical look of those modern cables. Bravo!

Julie said...

Wow! I am always impressed when someone can wear that color, and it looks great on you! I have always been a knitter who needs a specific pattern, and am so envious of those who can "build" a sweater on their own. Great work!

Janet McKee said...

Well done!

Robin said...

I usually don’t like these types of organic cables. Maybe I am too orderly. By doing the side-by-side reversed panel you created enough order. The sweater is beautiful and fits you so well. You are such a wonderful, inspiring knitter and designer. (And the sweater looks great with the wallpaper! Just stand near that wall all the time!)

Saren Johnson said...

Very impressive!

MaureenTakoma said...

Beautiful! Thank you for giving us your process notes. They are valuable to those of us who are daunted by the prospect of building our own sweater. You demonstrate how to achieve the practical amid the magic.

CarolM said...

Awesome sweater. I appreciate the notes about your mods. You look mauve-a-lous!