Galloway

Threave Castle

Last year we went to Dumfries and Galloway for the first time.  Plenty more here to explore, we thought, impressed by the Northumbrian crosses at Whithorn and the wonderful little bays along the shore.  So we booked three nights at Portpatrick, out on the Mull of Galloway, just past Stranraer.

Portpatrick itself has a setting  best viewed from above, especially from the dining room of a rather swish hotel where we celebrated my husband's birthday.

The coastal path leads north, up and over sheltered bays  where families were enjoying the freedom of fossicking in rock pools.

To the south, is a long drive down to the lighthouse at the actual mull.  Of course, we had to climb to the vertiginous gallery, looking out to the distant rock where the gannets roosted.  We enjoyed watching squadrons of gannets patrolling out at sea, en route for the fishing grounds

 

 

On the way back, we called at Logan Botanical Gardens.  For garden lovers the whole area is a delight, with at least five major gardens making the most of the sheltered climate, and abundant rainfall.

We were struck, though, by the absence of interesting settlements in the mile after mile of fields of contented beef cattle we passed through.  Where do the people even do their regular shopping, we wondered.

 

At last we saw a sign leading to a remote church, and ancient stones. You take the turning off the main road and reach a set of iron gates, padlocked, on a minor road.  Behind is a grassy track, leading out along an avenue.  Following this track brings you to Kirkmadrine church, and it could hardly be more isolated.  Once, it was the site of a monastery pre-dating Whithorn; the ancient stones from that time are displayed behind glass in a kind of porch on the church.  A strange forgotten place.